@angelsson
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I have a hook over ladder, used mainly for in and out of dingy, very difficult, for me anyway, to get on board from the water (unless like we had a very agile young lady who put bothe her feet on the bottom rung and stood up on it)
I have hung rope steps under it but still unsatisfactory.
Jeffs ladder looks to short also, I wonder if he has used it in Cardiff marina.
Any ladders others have which are longer would love to hear about.Interested in the alternator and conversion kit, more details please, particularly regulation systems and wiring to charge batteries .
Many thanks
mike
Hi Trevor,
Many thanks, I have found some brass countersunk french head (domed)x 5/8 long which I prefer with varnished mahogany or teak.Many thanks for your help.
Mike
Hi Trevor,
Sounds perfect for the job, I was thinking of rounding the outside edge of the mahogany strips just for cosmetic reasons.
I am lucky where I am there is quite a sophisticated merchant/supplier who can cut and plane to order.
What length screws did you use as I am not sure of the thickness of the fiberglass coach roof to which I will be fastening it to. I like to use solid brass screws, with a countersunk french head which is a gentle dome on top, seems in keeping with what CN did when building, at least where I have had to take something apart I have found all brass screws.Regards Mike
Sounds exactly what I need to do as 95 % of the head lining’s are in very good condition, just one corner that requires support, I am considering fitting similar all the way around for uniformity.
What size strips did you use Trevor?Mike
When all else fails…Perkins 4108!
Last year I fitted an inner foresail, hanked on, I had a rarely used second genoa, modified by local sailmaker, he cut the foot high more like a yankee, it works well doesn’t flog like my 150% genoa when un-poled in light airs, when it is poled they work well together, but have to keep an eye on COG as she crabs to leward with that set up of no main.
By the way, when I now fill the water tanks, I clip a piece of hose the the end of the loop vent which runs into a bucket, which tells me both tanks are full, safely… my main tanks have an overflow into the galley sink so not a problem.
I wish I knew, same thing happened to mine, almost impossible to get back in place without two pairs of hands, considering holding up with a wood strip of some sort.
Anyone else have similar?That was close! bad enough with water but diesel would be such a mess to clean, and soaking into the wood means the smell would be around for a long long time.
talk about in the nick of time eh..I have just re-read my previous post, and would like to correct errors in it, the tanks should have been as follows, the port tank is for diesel, which I have never used, it requires filling separately via a hatch in the floor of the port cockpit locker. It has a gate valve between the wing tank and main which appears to be working correctly, but without diesel in the wing tank difficult to be certain.
i use the starboard wing tank for water which fills automatically from the deck filling point. I must add, a little red faced, that this tank has a looped vent tucked against the lockers forward bulkhead, which will vent water when the tank is full, and left filling unsupervised! It was only when I saw water flooding in the little starboard locker in the aft cabin forward bulkhead. I was not immediately aware it was from the vent, and at first, wrongly investigated a leak in the filler tube to the main tank, but soon found the true cause, so no more unsupervised water tank fillings. Luckily at the time I was converting the small locker to house another 180 amp. battery, which works perfectly now.Mike
In the equipment manuals listed under ‘about the nic’ above is the information you will need.
or this link: https://www.nicholson38.org/wp-content/uploads/Neco-Notes_17DR8_35DR8.pdfI have replaced my Neco with a Simrad AP22, I kept the series/shunt motor which is a very powerful unit, found a supplier for new relays, and adapted it to work with the simrad digital signals.
All this was done with the help of an Italian teacher from the University of Rome who is an expert on Neco and has assisted others to convert.
I will check, but I think there is a document on here detailing the work needed to be done, if not please feel free to email me directly.
Best wishes
MikeI have seen some similar ones in trade suppliers to schools and offices etc, may be a place to look.
MikeHello Hans,
I am also in the Mediterranean, and have been considering a bow thruster for some time, usually when I am reversing to a pontoon!
Have you considered what size you would use and the method of powering it?
I already have heavy cables going forward for the anchor winch, but the current for a thruster would be about double, so either double up the cables or set up my batteries switchable to 24v just for the thruster, reducing the current by half. I am not considering batteries forward purely for the purpose.
Would be interested in your ideas.
MikeI have the same set up as you Trevor, and I have considered for some time changing the use of the starboard wing tank from diesel to water, (never filled it with fuel anyway)which I use much more of.
It can be isolated from the main fuel tank by the stop valve in the engine bay leading from it to the tank. It should not be to difficult to redirect to the main water tank using a much smaller bore pipe to allow it to top it up.
I have a 50ltr. and a 20 ltr. heavy duty containers which lives in the lazerette which can be used to store diesel if required.
Has anyone else done this or contemplated doing it.
MikeHi Jeff.
Everything sent to you.
Also info re widows…. ooops i mean windows, sorry to disappoint..
Mike
Yes we all seem to have different experiences with the Perkins, mine is the original fitted 4-108, god knows how many hours on her, but starts if I just show her the key! burns no oil, no smoke, and no leaks either, so like Orion I go out of my way to maintain what is a very good and reliable engine, meaning oil changes more often than recommended hours run, clean oil is the life blood. Been tempted to do a top-end overhaul but resisted it on the basis of not fixing what is not broken. She recently ran for 1 1/2 days non-stop when wind died on me, not ideal sailing but I knew she would get me home, a tireless workhorse I would not change for a modern one.
I also have the Thames Marine gearbox, PO rebuilt it, he was a marine engineer so knew what he was about, I keep the gearbox well topped up with oil as recommended.
I have 2 smaller panels which i originally fitted, never arrive at the boat now with low batteries (the med sunshine helps)have also installed a 100w larger one, I can get up to 5 amps looking now volts are 13.3 and with fridge on have 1.2 amp charge. batteries are at 95% readings from my BM-1 compact
Fixed it, the old one is a mechanical connection, works like a thermocouple, a replacement has 5m of cable so went for a new sensor and matching resistance gauge from ASAP, excellent service and not to many beer tokens spent.
I have looked at your installation which looks very neat and nicely finished, but as you say yourself is rather small for a prolonged stay in a restricted area.
I considered using the same space, but rejected it in favour of a larger one about 50+ ltrs. with no loss of the very useful ‘pigeon holes’ and tailor made to fit in the space under the stbd. bunk.
The space behind and under the pigeon hole box is ideal for fitting the 3 way changeover valve, easily assessable from the cupboard next to the toilet bowl when changeover required.
I utilised the existing manual pump (Henderson Mk11, original I think and working perfectly) to empty the tank, never used it previously as the bowl has its own Jabsco to pump out. Both feed through the Blakes via a ‘Y’ connector on top.Mike
The tank I made and fitted also has a pump-out facility on top, but not through the deck, as I didn’t want to disturb the teak, the same deck fitting is in the tank top, access through the hatch just above it, once the bunk top removed.
I fitted a 3 way valve to divert from the head bowl to the tank, which also has a large ball valve in the discharge pipe to isolate it further. I understand US coastguard will test regularly and also fit seals which can only be removed when away from restricted areas, if found removed or tampered with penalties apply!
I also used my existing Blake outlet with a Y valve, those Blake’s are still the best,the only thru-hull was for the vent, in a reduced size pipe (1 inch) with a nice SS external fitting.
