@angelsson
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I have been considering fitting a holding tank, and unlike Marilyn, decided the stbd. berth the best place, did check out her recommendations, which have much merit, decided to use the under-berth space.
I have so far removed the berth base for access, a new one will have an access cover to get to the finished tank. I have made a cardboard mock up, which fits in perfectly, I want it removable and not a fixture, will make it up from 10mm ply, sealed inside with epoxy, nice moulded corners and finaly finished with a gel-coat paint, recommended to me by a tank manufacturer who use it all the time, so a nice smooth finish, complete with baffles inside. Externally it will be glassed so good and strong.
The size will give me some 60 litres, similar to the one Peter has on Alexina, with a diverter valve when in restricted areas, and a hand pump to empty when offshore.
The below water line challenge does require vented loops, or the closing of the outlet following toilet usage, or both.I am going to make and fit a ‘black water tank’ to fit under the stb. forecabin bunk, (similar to what you can see in the photos on https://sites.google.com/site/alexinaofshoreham/home his 360 deg. tour.
I have been recommended to use core material to fibreglass around called klegacell or klegecell, has anyone heard of it and a possible supplier.
Thanks MikeI do exactly the same as yourself in the shower, a great opportunity to keep it looking good, I think your right about the mildew, leave it as it is.
Mike
Hi Jeff,
Not heard of anyone with a shower curtain as the head is designed for the shower without one, mine certinly works well without.
Mike
Hi Graham,
I have fitted a pair of Holmatro 40’s they are terrific, easy to fit an service, recommend them.
Mike
Hi Kenneth,
You do not need to open the solenoid to bridge the two connections on top.
You are doing manually what the solenoid does electrically, that is a coil is energised by 12v, which bridges the two connections which are much heavier and allows a heavier current to be drawn, that is all a solenoid does, using a heavy screwdriver across the external connections does exactly the same thing, but please be careful if you decide to do that for the reasons previously mentioned.
Steve has given good advice re turning the motor spindle by hand so the brushes make a better contact with the armature having stood idle for a long time.
If you are still uncertain, an auto electrition will sort it for you quickly.
Regards
Mike
Hello Kenneth,
I have in the past shorted the solenoid connections together which gives a direct feed to the motor, which in a few seconds will tell me if the solenoid is dicky.I know this will be frowned on by many, and would not recommend it to the uninitiated!!! but a heavy screwdriver held firmly across the connections will initially cause some sparks until firm contact made when the motor should turn.
With common sense it should prove the solenoid is suspect if it just clicks and nothing happens, be careful if you do decide to short them out, and do not do it for more than a few seconds.
I have done it many times in the past, usually on motor vehicles, so please do not sue me if things dont work out! it is entirely your choice.
Regards
Mike
Hello Kenneth,
It is certainly possible for a motor to seize, but would consider it unlikely and the last resort as a solution.
It may possibly after 2 years need a turn over by hand but would suggest it is an electrical problem, mine has a solenoid, which is what I think you can hear clicking, and the contacts may be making but have a poor connectivity due to corrosion or dirt, would certainly start there, make sure the solenoid is making the connection it should do for the heavier amperage the windlass will use.
A step by step investigation would be the way to go rather than assume the worst scenario of a seized motor.Hope tgis helps.
Mike
Love to do so for you, i was aboard her at the boat show, but will be in Sardinia.
Try this chap, he may be available, Stan of & steps to Heaven fame! and he does not charge either.
Hello,
I have just purchased an Iridium 9555, I took advice about which to use, and the Iridium came out as the one with the best coverage of all, I intend to use it later this year.
MikeI understand there are many options and models and different coverages of the world.
The one I will be using later this year will be an Iridium phone, their worldwide coverage does appear to be the best of those available. Lots of phones available on e-bay but do your own research as to where you want to go. also be aware of the call/data costs which are much higher than what you normally experience.In addition to Pat’s question, does anyone know of free software for connecting a satellite phone to a laptop.
Sad news, hate to hear that happening to a boat, but somehow closer when it’s almost a family member.
Hope you find another to care for.
Mike
Top one shows complete support assmebly, connected to the new bulkhead using dyneema again, middle one of the ‘T’ bracket locally made, bolted to the U bolt, with the tang in same direction as any stresses, and the third showing the new bulkhead (prior to some painting) made from 25mm marine ply, three coats of epoxy prior to fitting and glassing in place, as directly underneath the deck fastening as I could get, to prevent any undue ‘moments’ acting on the bulkhead.
The stainless plates are either side, (they came with the U bolt so found a use for them)and between them are s/s tube glassed in oversize holes and completely filled with epoxy, then drilled out to fit both the connecting shackle bolt and bottom bolt, the tubes spread the load wider than just the bolt diameters would.
I have drawings of the fittings used if anyone wishes to see them.
Regards to all, MikeTwo more showing the deck end of the stay, the ‘green stuff’ around the U bolts is a sealer a neighbour who lives aboard introduced me to, it works like an epoxy, is two lots of plasticine like material in use, one lot blue other yellow which when mixed in equal proportions so it becomes ‘green’, and begins to go hard, I used some under the washers first so it squeezed down between the holes and the bolt shaft, and then covered the nuts to ensure no water ingress.
Sending some more of underdeck next,Top two show the mast head fitting I had made locally, riveted to mast, bottom one shows deck fitting via a dyneema soft shackle, the turnbuckle connected to staylock on the stay, using a shackle as a pivot so the turnbuckle can fold up when stowed, using the shackle to do so, with another soft shackle made to size.
Hi Trevor,
I had completed fitting my inner forestay, been trying to post the photos here but not much success so sent them to Marilyn asking her to post them.
Made and glassed a new bulkhead directly in-line with the under-deck fitting, which was a C bolt fitted in the aft staghead bolts, to prevent any twisting moments under stress. I connected the bottom of the forestay using a soft shackle made from pure dyneema to the turnbuckle which folds up to the stay for parking at the shroud when not in use. Photos will help when posted. I had a fitting made for the mast head and riveted in place using Duralac between them.
Regards
MikeHi Trevor,
Your advice was great, I contacted Seaclear as you did and he supplied me with the female ‘press in’ nuts and the gasket to fit between the frame and GRP. I also bought the screws online, neat countersunk ones that look good.
I did two of mine which had been leaking, but thanks to Capt. Tolley were not letting water in, but the corrosion between the nuts, screws and the frames and internal holding strips demanded replacement.
They came out ok, some had to be drilled out but no big deal, when I refitted I used a corrosion preventive, Duralac to stop the action between the aluminium and the stainless screws.
All in all very satisfactory, ran a hose on them for a while but not a drop to be seen.Welcome to our group Graham, hope you find this site as useful to you as it has been to me.
Regards
Mike
Hello Ollie
I hope also to be around on the 18th. would be great to meet up with you all.
Regards
mike
Arild,
Yes your understanding is correct, the gelcoat has become brownish, the PO had partly varnished to match the flooring, going to get to it after some of the other more pressing (two window replacements) when I get back next month, plus fitting an inner forestay.
Sounds like you spent lots time getting the GRP to the finish you wanted.Best wishes
Mike
