@angelsson
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Hi Jeff,
I recently bought some captive fitting nuts here for my windows, they have been mentioned previously when passed on to me:
http://www.seaclear.co.uk/
Be worth asking them, if you already haven’t.Mike
Hello Van,
This is the company I use for all my diesel parts, they are very helpful and would respond to an email or a call, they are listed here for discounts on first order.
http://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/index.php
Hope this helpsMike
Hello Roger,
Been looking at your inner forestay setup, I will be fitting an inner forestay over the winter, with a dual purpose of being able to fly a second genoa during normal sailing, and a jib when wind gets up, I have seen similar on other boats and they look good in full flight.
I like your arrangement using the staghorn aft bolt holes to for an eye as a fixing point, seems to be the most logical point just forward of my winch, and I shall be going as high as I can on the mast without interfering with the main forestay, my rigger is recommending a fitting for the mast and new external halyard.
From a more practical point of view, if you use it as a companion to your genoa, how does the tacking work for you, as the gap reduced when tacking, I imagine it will mean the genoa being furled in preparation to tack, then going though the wind with the inner and when on course relaunching the genoa. The benefits of not dragging the genoa around the inner stay are obvious in terms of wear and tear.Regards
Mike
Hi Trevor,
Looks a great arrangement, the strong point in photo 2, did you glass it in yourself, it looks substantial.
As to the position of the inner forestay, what is the gap between it and your outer forestay, and how does it work when flying both using a roller reefing on the mainstay, which I presume you do.Regards
Mike
Hello Trevor,
I have had a reply from Seaclear, they can supply me the ‘interscrews’ captive nuts which are either 6mm or 10mm in depth,
Can you recall which ones you used.In addition, can you please also send me the photos of your inner forestay, see the thread.
Best wishes
Mike
In addition, can you please also send me the photos of your inner forestay set up both above and below deck as you indicated on the post on the Nic38 site.
Hope I am not asking to much, but would be obliged for any help.
Best wishes
Mike
Here is the reply from Seaclear:
Dear Michael
Thank you for the enquiry, yes I do remember supplying these, the nuts you refer to are called ‘interscrews’, in profile they resemble a ‘top hat’ shape, they come in two sizes 6 & 10 mm (this is the depth of the thread), 6mm is the usual, if you have an idea of the machine screw you need I can also supply these. The neoprene tape comes on a 20 mtr roll which can be useful around the boat. If you can tell me the quantities you require I can give you a cost.
The white powder is corrosion which is quite common, once you have removed all the exterior screws the inner frames should be easily removed, the corrosion can then be cleaned off and the old interscrews removed by knocking them out with a hammer and a drift, they should come out easily then replace with new (all quite self explanatory once you start).
Freeing the windows from the boat might take some effort because ‘Captain Tolleys’ is glue, you will need to break the seal between the window frame and the boat, a fine bladed flat scraper and gentle use of a hammer usually works, once the windows are out you need to clean both surfaces of any old seal/sealant and refit them with the neoprene tape which acts as a gasket.
I hope the above helps, if you would like to give me a call to discuss this further please do.
Regards
Graham Beal
SeaClear Windows
07761882626
01622205837Hello Trevor,
Just seen this post from 03/11! have you tried sealing the edges yet?
I do not seem to get water from the side of the hull, (my aft cabin does not have a head in it which I prefer) but I do get some from under the aft access to the lazarette, down the slope similar to you, some I found was from a leaking gland on the rudder stock which stopped following a tighten with stilsons.
I have a loose piece of varnished plywood which fits over the gap of the sloping area from the lazerette, I intend to fit a small strip across to retain it in place when like you I get around to revarnishing the floor, which is in very good condition, as is the varnish of the rest of the woodwork.Best wishes
Mike
The hull showing is still a fawn fiberglass finish, have you painted or varnished yours?
Hello Trevor
I have located Teak Wonder from Marine Store (01621 854280) I can get 4 ltrs of cleaner for £29.00, same for brightener, the sealer is 1 ltr. for £20.00
They also have combo packs of cleaner and brightener, a litre of each for £18.00, also sealer same price.
You said you only used the cleaner and brightener once in 2007, and an annual two applications of the sealer.
Not sure of the coverage, would 2 litres of each, cleaner and brightener be enough, also how much does two coats of sealer use, would order enough of it for initial sealing work and for a couple of years in the way you recommend.Regards
MikeHi Trevor,
Yes I did realise about the plane,they, the seams are not a problem and only a small amount proud, better they there I feel, but many thanks for you help I am home now and already preparing for a return early/mid January.
Mike
Hello Trevor,
I appreciate your reply, will look into the Teak Wonder it sounds ideal, and you have had good results with it.
My deck is pretty good, just a few small problem areas requiring maintenance, as the deck is glued directly to the main deck which is a single laminate with no core unlike the coach roof which has balsa and ply core, lends itself to being mechanically fixed with screws where required.
To be honest I was a little hurried into considering a new deck, besides the cost of course. The surface of mine is a little irregular, nothing drastic just some of the seams a little above the teak, have you or would you consider a careful sanding as a first step before using the TW.
Many thanks
Mike
If you do not sell the legs to Lastgasp please contact me info@mikexango.co.uk
Thank you
MikeHello Marilyn,
Sailing with the cover on and having windows sounds vital in your climate! even in winter here in the Med it is still 18/20deg with rain the only problem, summer can be up to 35/40 whilst shade is important a bimini type shade more important.
It was because I rarely use the covers I asked the question about the windows, but is is obvious to me that different conditions will dictate the value of windows.
The ‘external’ covers over the windows on mine are the same size as the window held on with press studs on the outside, which of course require removal prior to sailing if covers are left on, whether they effect the temperature or not I could not say, I am usually please to get them off all together to let some cooling air flow through the cockpit. (I can send a pic of the external covers if you wish)
I have already ordered with Sailrite, I found them good on price, and the carriage charges (post office)still make good compared to most UK, and the support is invaluable, best company I have dealt with on that score.
The thread recommended by them for the Sunbrella is V92 used with a #20 needle so have ordered that as recommended by their technical cover making expert.
Same applies to zippers, they seem to have a wide range of quality. I always use a silicone spray on them before I leave so that they open so smoothly when I return, cannot say I have ever had a challenge with them, same applies to the cord fitting into the aluminium grooves, a little spay goes a long way.
Best wishesMike
Hi Trevor,
Many thanks, thats makes a lot of sense, but as I spend all my time in the Med they are usually taken down, and only the aft cover is on if raining heavily, with little visibility due to the non wiped window. Perhaps I should also think of future owners and include windows with external covers as I have now.
Anyone bought a new wiper blade recently? If so please let me know the make and model you have.
Regards
Mike
Hi Arild,
I have serviced the motor as you suggested, and is running fine. The shaft from the gearbox was siezed in the tube, (treaded outside) from the gearbox, the whole thing was moving! stripped the box and pressed the siezed shaft out following a soaking in WD40, works as good as new, and respayed body makes it look like it also.
Best wishes
MikeHi Marilyn,
I have tried the 48 cover and it will certainly not fit properly, the sides are to short and as it is in one piece it is to long, modifications would cost as much as a new one would.
I have neen promised my money back as I have returned it as requested to a safe place, the owner is currently in Turkey and waiting his reply.
Regards
Mike
Looks great, I like the saloon table arrangement, mine is 90 deg. the other way, which I also like and has access to lockers all way along and under the book shelf (in Centre) and cupboards.
I also like the panelled end with full length double shelves, mine is a plain area with not to much adorning it.
Cockpit looks very usefull to, instruments behind the wheel in a well made case, I still have my binnacle compass there, but must admit to not using it much since I upgraded my Neco to a Simrad which makes life much easier.
She looks a credit to you, a well found boat much loved I am sure.Mike
Hi Arild,
I think you mean the commutator which the brushes connect to when it is running, I have not opened it other than for the gearbox end which seems fine, i will certainly try your suggestion, I still have it of course, will let you know the results.
Many thanks for your reply
Mike
I have replaced my Neco with a Simrad unit to drive the Series Shunt motor, and I have the old neco units for sale if anyone requires spares, send me an e mail for details.
Mike
(I am on holiday from 28/05 to 21/06)
Hello Peter,
As you know i have also retired my Neco with a Simrad ‘brain’ running the series shunt motor, if you remember I sent you where to buy those two relays which control direction, they are identical physicaly, and fit and work perfectly, my old ones were rather pitted at the contacts so new ones to ensure good operation.
I could not have done it without the help of a Physics professor in a Rome university, like you I have tried others, but this guy is a real expert on Neco,a real passion with him, speaks great English so no language difficulties, we spoke on the phone also he provided me with all the diagrams and how to modify the motor, which is an amazingly strong piece of kit, in order to work with Simrad. Between us we have put together a procedure for anyone else to follow should they decide to do so, will email on request.
Regards
Mike
