@angelsson
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Hi Pat,
Not having tried coppercoat I have no views on it either way, have read differing experiencesof use, but then that is the case with most products, can be very objective.I came across a guy in Barcelona who claimed he had the cleanest bottom in the Med ( I thought for a moment he was a toilet tissue sailsman!) He had been using, to say the least, an unusual combination of cheap antifoul and the hottest chilli powder he could find. His philosophy was why spend lots of money to be washed away and encrusted with marine growth. I have since followed his advice, the last three antifouls have been done this way, the last one could have been left at least another year, and the growth was minimal. I purchased the hottest powder I could find from a local Indian food wholesaler, and mixed it in the cheapest paint I could find, was what the local fishermen use. The consistency was pretty thick, but still applicable with a roller, the finish is not as smooth as just paint as you can feel a little roughness which is the powder in the paint, but certainly smooth enough for cruising and no noticeable loss of speed through the water.
I am in a high foul area in Sardinia, a river runs into the port which is even warmer than the sea and subsequent marine growth. I am now only doing bi annual painting, with an annual lift and wash off of slime, and a quick look at everything else. The prop is protected with Prop Shield, which I find works very well, worth a look if you google it.
Have funI have now converted my Neco autopilot using Simrad AP22. I purchased a complete second hand system, AP22 control unit, j300x junction box (the brain I call it) a fluxgate compass and rudder feedback unit. These components recently removed from a boat in the US.
A friend has the same unit on his Swan 54 and has lots of add on options for NMEA 01683 units, such as GPS etc.
I kept the Neco drive unit, which is a powerfull series /shunt motor, the challenge was to make it obey Simrad instructions, and was fortunate to have the assistance of an electronics expert who works in the physics department of Sapienza University of Rome, he speaks fluent English, and is enthusiastic about what he does, so was very fortunate to have his technical help and support, and was able to collaberate with him in making a successful conversion of the NDU.
I have the rest of the Neco components, cockpit control unit and directional compass which could be made available to others.
If anyone wishes to have the full instructions, wiring diagrams, and step by step guide to the conversion i would be happy to forward it on.Hi Marilyn,
On Czarina Blue have a masthead tri-colour which is the one I use all the time.Also have bi-colour on pulpit, the stern white is at the mizzen masthead, fitted by PO, very visible.
Both systems operate independently as they must re COLREGS.Thank you Marilyn,
The largest credit is to Daniel Fua, he is in the physics department in a University in Rome, I played a minor role in putting together the archive instructions, but Daniel is the real brains behind it all, he has helped others in the past with he same project with other manufacturers products also.
I will be fitting the AP22 in the next few weeks, providing further photographic records as work progresses, with Daniel on hand via telephone if needed.I have also put together a fuel polishing system, which can run when on shore power, and also when batteries allow, it doubles as a standby if the manmual 4108 pump decides to stop pumping, if anyone would like the diagram let me know.
Mike
Preparation with a few days of WD 40 or similar to the taper is always a good way to go rather than a quick squirt prior to attempting removal ( sorry to repeat the obvious but it so often doesn’t happen that way, but I do try)
What does help with proper care of course is when you have the puller under a good tension, is a few judicious taps with a hammer as said above, but if you can some quick heat is a great help, but have a running hose nearby to cool it all back down.
Would stress again, with proper care, but quick expansion works where in most circumstances, unless the fittings are seriously decayed together.
Richards advice is good as it can come apart in a ‘ruddy blush’ so a line on it will help.I am not aware of the keel depth of the Hamble, but I am sure all figures are available for comparison.
As to the Nic 38, she has survived everything you can throw at her, and will continue to look after you in seriously bad weather, if you are unfortunate enough to find yourself in such a situation, personaly I do not do gales, but can of course be unavoidable.
All the owners will testify to her seaworthyness, and the confidence in her ability to look after you in such conditions, whatever tactic you employ, run before or heave to.
There are quite a number of this group who are liveaboards, and who do many miles every year, also with young children learning their schoolwork and so much more (wish I had had the same opportunity)as the travel far and wide, whose parents entrust their lives to the soundness of our wonderful Nic 38’s, quite the best sailing investment for me.Marilyn,
Thank you for your help, I have studied what you have done which is so well archived and informative. I think I have found some BSP fittings which will be ideal, will either drill and tap the access hatch in situ, if I can find a way to catch the swarf that is, or remove it as you did.
Best wishes
MikeHi Pat,
I have a Valient heater installed, which also had diaphram problems, it had stretched and needed replacement.
I took photographs of mine, with the cover off, and sent them to Valient, they were a little surprised any were still in use at it turned out to be the first model they made! the diaphrams for mine were not avaiable, but they sent me some almost the same, all I needed to do was punch a couple of new holes to fit them, since then perfect…I had quite a few sent to me, they are on the boat and I am in the UK or I would send some to you. As to the water pressure I am not able to help, mine works fine using the galley pump.
MikeHello Marilyn,
Thank you for your helpful reply, I will contact Raymarine to see if they could refurbish or rebuild mine, which does work, albeit some 30 deg. out!
I would appreciate seing the original documentation to if you could send it to me, my e-mail address is info@mikexango.co.uk
Many thanks for your help.
Mike
Would agree, it is a good point, I would have thought fitting such chain plates a litte OTT, and would they be sufficient for the anticipated 10k pounds. Are such forces a maximum for a very short time frame anyway, I really dont know.
I have up forard a very heavy chain cleat mounted in front of my windlass, if, and its a big one, I ever get in the need of such drastic measures i would go aft from the cleat both port and starboard, around the winches ( brand new Holmatro and delighted with them )and put my faith in that. Remember we have boats that will look after us better than many others, one of the reasons i am an owner.The use of the mast sounds ok to trail a drogue from, but even better i feel is a bridle from the primary winches, they are, or should be very secure.
Mike
Firstly to Marilyn, I am delighed SSL agreed to a discount, they are a good company, I ordered items from them yesterday, and they arrived this morning by Royal Mail.
The company is in the Outer Hebrides, an island called Uist, so even more surprising.
I understand they will ship internationally also, when i find a good company I like to let others know.Peter, and all on Alexina, hope you are keeping well, loved the blog, gave me a big smile to read Tiger was teaching her friends rude songs in french… all part of a wonderfull education she must be getting.
Thanks for the reply re Hydrovane, was very impressed at what I saw at the boatshow, and also read others experiences with them.
The only other way to avoid the mizzen would be to have the vane extended past the end of the boom, which would be very cumbersome and possibly unsightly to, dispensing with the mizzen when using the vane is not a huge sacrifice. Could be raised high enough to avoid the vane, and lashed to one side also, is that what you refer to as ‘scandalised’
I have always felt it more cosmetic than anything else, other than when at anchor, or in tandem with a reefed genoa when winds dictate that set up, which can be nicely balanced.Kindest regards
Mike
Headlining has also been a problem for me, most of it is in good order but the areas where it has become detached from the plastic grips, which I know other owners have difficulty replacing without at least 3 hands! does not look good very good following repair attemps.
I was at the Southampton boat show this week, in my opinion the best of the UK shows, and looked for an alternative. I found a small stand which specialises in upholstery, panelling and headlinings which looks a simple and good looking alternative.
They demonstrated for me a foam backed vinyl, (about 3 to 4mm thick in total) produced for a marine environment, anti fungal wipe clean surface. He had an example of use, where it had been glued to a thin sheet of ply, which had been folded around the edges of the board by just the vinyl (the foam backing removed after the fold around)and glued or stapled in position. It was held in place my small velcro strips which were very secure, took some pulling off the display. An alternative fixing are buttons if required.
I mentioned others in our group could be interested and the owner of the company is more than happy to send out sample packs to those interested.
Hawke House Ltd., Unit E1. Heritage Business Park, Heritage Way, Gosport. Hants. PO12 4BG. 023 92 588 588 e.mail hawke.house@btopenworld.com
Hope this info helpful.
Mike
