@rhapsode
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If it helps – our main anchor Rocna 20 kgs stays on the bow roller permanently. Pinned and clamped when underway.
We have the original CQR in the anchor locker but we found it dragged a lot when we were in the Med. so when we used it we attached our Fortress 37 to it with a few metres of chain. It’s never dragged after that.
Peter
Rhapsode’s Lewmar 42ST primary winches are approaching the end of their life. I read that others are now using 40ST and 46ST.
Can anyone comment on their experience with both these or any other winches installed in recent years please?
Man thanks,
Peter
I’m commissioning a scale model of Rhapsode (ex CYN III). I don’t have my computer with me, only a small iPhone and I’m having difficulty in identifying the right plans needed from the archive. I need a simple plan of the deck but without the clutter of the insides if such a plan is available plus a side view and stern or bow view.
Can anyone offer any guidance please?
Peter
Thanks Arild, that’s very helpful. I’ll pass the information onto the engineers and see what they make of it. They are still wanting to fit a standard cutless bearing but this might make them change their mind. The boat is in Grenada and I’m told no one is familiar with white metal bearing in yachts. They don’t often see 50 year old boats.
Thanks Marilyn,
I’m struggling to find the drawing of the shaft and the bearing using the plans’ archive. I’m wondering if there is any reason why a cutless bearing can’t be used?
PeterWe use TankTender (https://www.improducts.co.uk/brands/tank-tender) It’s simple to install, seems to be accurate and requires almost no maintenance. We use it for the main fuel tank and FW tank.
Does anyone know where the wire from the aft heads light reappears after going up in to the deck head?
Thanks Van – very useful advice. What would you estimate the thickness of the bulkhead to the cockpit to be?
I should have started this project years ago – I’m hauling out old wires by the armful with barely a fuse in sight!
I’ve decided to upgrade the the instruments after all. So if anyone wants the original B & G echo sounder and wind instruments’ controller let me know. I’m also removing the original Neco system so I’m happy to take those home with me as well if they are of use to anyone. We’re in Grenada at present so we might not get back to the UK for a few weeks yet.
Peter
I’m a few years late to this party but it’s time for me to bite the bullet and rewire the boat.
I’m wondering how you got on John with your old equipment. When you updated your electrics did you keep the equipment or replace it with modern slimline kit? Rhapsode still has the original and bulky B & G echo sounder which works well. I don’t want to replace a perfectly good instrument but I would like a clutter free panel over the chart table. I’m wondering whether to follow Van’s example but bring the panel above the chart table out by about 8cm all the way down. That way I can hide things like the AIS unit and MPPT controller behind it to de clutter and cut a hole for the echo sounder so that the face is flush with the new panel. Has anyone considered this option? Critiques very welcome.
Thanks,
Ours was an aluminium plate. It had started to corrode around the holes for the bolts. We’re replacing the foredeck teak and whilst doing it decided to replace the aluminium with a SS plate.
Does anyone have a contact number for Ollie? I’m going out to my boat in ten days and would like to take his mizzen sail with me if I can.
Tks
Peter
I could use a new mizzen sail Ollie. Rhapsode is in Trinidad so I can pack a sail in my bag but not battens. Can you post a pick of the batten pockets please so I can see whether my existing ones are likely to fit without modification?
Tks
Peter
Here’s another story…
Our starter motor was playing up so we asked a starter motor man in Trinidad to take a look at it. He found the brushes were a little worn but nothing else.
I put it back on and we sailed up to Carriacou and then found it was still not working properly. The mechanic there diagnosed a solenoid problem. It being a sealed unit I thought I’d have to get a new one. Not so! The mechanic cut it open, cleaned it up and then welded the two halves back together again!
It’s behaved impeccably ever since. But a spare is on order!
Hi Steve,
Our boat has both wing tanks. The port one is for fuel and the starboard one for water. The isolating valve for the water tank is towards the aft end of the engine bay. The breather is a hose leading off from the top of the wing tank at the forward end which remains curled up inside the cockpit locker. When filling I uncurl the hose and lead it out of the locker so that the overflow water goes in the cockpit and ultimately the cockpit drain.
The main tank breather goes into the sink.
There is only one filler pipe which is on the starboard side. This feeds into the main tank. When it’s full the pressure in the pipe pushes the water up into into the wing tank.
On a couple of occasions during our last sailing season when the boat was rolling at anchor (not heavy rolling) there were loud percussive bangs emanating from the main tank. It was obviously an air bubble so the solution was to drain off a little water. This had never happened before and I have yet to discover why they happened this year. Maybe next year…
Peter
Has anyone considered fitting cam cleats for mizzen and genny sheets so as to free up the winches for the mizzen?
Any thoughts or possible issues from the members??
Peter
We made up a canvas rain catcher which is attached to the inside of the hardtop just outside the rail for the cockpit canopy for the full length of the hardtop and leads down to the guard wires. Upturned sides, some loops and ties and a hose complete the set up. When not sailing the starboard one feeds directly into the water tank filler pipe. We never have both catchers up simultaneously so that we can hop out of the cockpit easily when necessary.
We haven’t worked out how to do something similar alongside the aft edge of the hardtop.
