Replacing Teak Deck

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This topic contains 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  Ollie Holden 3 days, 4 hours ago.

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August 4, 2017 at 10:50 #26126

Ollie Holden
Participant

I’ve taken the plunge and decided that we will replace the teak deck on Nutmeg. I know it’s not cost-effective but then boats aren’t. I see it as a duty of ownership. Nutmeg is in the yard on Hayling Island (UK) and is in the process of being stripped down. I’m posting this to gauge interest from others in following the progress. In the course of doing this I’ve had to pretty-much strip out the interior, and obviously there are a few bits and bobs I’ve uncovered. Happy to share as much or as little with folk as is useful – pitfalls, costs, photos, names of good/bad shipwrights, whatever!

August 4, 2017 at 11:31 #26127
Moderator
Moderator
Keymaster

Thanks Ollie for the offer! Rainshadow doesn’t have teak decks, but I’m curious about the teardown process.

Was it destructive to remove your icebox? Sometimes I wonder if we should remove it to get better access for insulating, or replace it.

For the primary winches, we’re having trouble accessing some of the bolts that hold down the winch bridges. Were there any surprises when you removed yours?

Have you seen any aluminum backing plates bedded in the FRP that need repair/replacing? For example, at the stanchion bases? We are rebedding everything that penetrates the deck before backing plates etc. get damaged from failed sealant, and I wonder about some of ours due to stress cracks on the deck.

As moderator, I can post pictures within the forum postings, but I am sorry you cannot. If you can post photos elsewhere, you can add links to those photos here – see this posting for more info.

Cheers – Marilyn, moderator

August 4, 2017 at 18:40 #26129
Czarina Blue
Czarina Blue
Participant

Hi Ollie,

Having filled 235 holes from the past two or three teak decks’ screws at different times on Czarina Ue, using sealant and textured fibreglaas squares in order to seal with water penetration, I’m sure our decks will come off in the next five years to properly remedy the problem from above. So I’m interested to know the cost and factors involved though I might be tempted to go for a cream grip paint instead if it’s cooler for the interior. I saw that on a similar ages boat recently and it looked very nice, the sMe vibe as teak in a way.

Anyway I’m all ears!

Regards to you all,

Duncan

August 14, 2017 at 07:15 #26137

Ollie Holden
Participant

Hi – none of the stripdown has been particularly difficult so far, but I’d ascribe that to this being my second refit of Nutmeg, so I’m a bit more familiar with how things are put together/come apart.

Re: the fridge – I took the front panel off (just screwed on) and from here you can slide the top of the fridge unit out. I had bolted the refrigeration plate to this, so I needed to slide it out with care, to avoid bending the refrigerant hoses. From here, I think I can access the one stanchion base. When I replaced the chainplates ten years ago, I made a little inspection hatch to access the aft port plate, which can be accessed from the cupboard fwd of the fridge.

Re: the winch bases – I’ve taken the winches off still attached to the bridge. I managed to get to the bolts with a combination of socket set and spanners. Since doing this, I invested in a set of stubby spanners as I think these might help. They are bolted on with three bolts through the deck, and two bolts into the coaming, with an aluminium backing plate.

I am working from the aft deck forward. I’ve found a reasonable amount of soggy plywood under the mizzen mast mount which will need dealing with. I’ve also got a lot of white powdery substance coming out of the holes when I took one of the cleats off – I suspect the aluminium plate has corroded. Not sure yet whether I will try to remove/re-bed – will decide when I’ve removed the teak deck.

I will take a load of photos and post a link.

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