@duncan-mckenzie
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Czarina Blue hull no 110 is now for sale in Whangarei New Zealand, after a new hull paint job in Mauritius Blue and new varnish, amongst other things.
The full spec and photos are at:
http://www.dunkmckenzie.com/czarinablue-nicholson38
Many thanks
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hi Arild,
when we overhauled our 4108 in Colombia we also looked at the gearbox and the mechanic identified degradation of the aluminium between the oil and coolant water zones. His solution was to dremel lightly then make good with cold weld epoxy (brands ‘JB Weld’, ‘Permatex Cold Weld’).
This is not ideal but I have found it useful also in my exhaust elbow air water mixer pipe, which have a notoriously short life. The last time I got my elbow refabricated, I coated the inside of the pipe where the worst corrosion occurs, where the seawater enters, with cold weld and so far it has lasted five years whereas normally it would last about three. Cold weld is not an ideal fix, but it might buy you some time whilst you continue hunting for a spare.
Best regardsDuncan
Thanks for Arnett reference and fascinating about the ceiling. Marilyn may want to re-locate that information to another section of the forum!
And who cast your white metal bearing, if I may ask?
That and a new saloon ceiling are on my list, actually, so interested to see any photos of your ceiling solution, dunkmckenzie@gmail.cois my email.
Thanks,
Duncan
Thanks Maralyn, that is really interesting. I renewed the rubbers of my flexible couplers in Colombia two years ago so they aer ina good state. God knows if they imitated the original quality of the rubber correctly. If alignment isn’t an issue (and goodness knows how you do an alignment check on a boat with a shaft made of three sections with flexible couplings, other than presenting a similar diameter long tube through the tail shaft orifice when the rudder is off, which is what we did in Saint Martin in 2021), then the only other factor I wonder about is the fact I have been using a non standard prop by Axiom, a second generation version of your one, I believe, and I wonder if that creates an oscillation or something….I am considering to try the original prop again for the next few years possibly. But I have noted exactly the same noises at the same speeds as you have, funny to read your observations! I will update as I know. A question: does there exist a CN diagram of the tail shaft that I could use to get a new SS shaft made in advance of lifting out of the water?
Just got this from the FB forum:
OEM is 1 3/8″ phosphor bronze but I have been told by T Norris in the UK that’s it’s not been available in the correct quality for many years.
They have recommended 35mm duplex stainless replacement (35mm should just fit and much cheaper and easily available)Further pics
Hi Van,
That thought had crossed my mind, ie moving the top fixture higher. I have read about your foredeck set up and I think I know what you mean but I would love to see a photo of that, with the pennants/ triangular set up. Thanks for your input.
Hi Marilyn
That’s really helpful. I note that Mike skipped past where he had mounted the top attachment for the stay. He had actually mounted it about 5.5 ‘ down the mast below the tangs. That’s a long way down and I make that to be 15% of the foretriangle height. The usual rec is not more than 5% and some say max 10% on certain stiff masts. I have run this question through the FB Sails and Rigging forum where many retired riggers and various sailors comment, and I got the whole range of answers from “Definitely need running backstays” to “It’s best practice” to “Don’t need apart from in extreme winds”, to “Don’t bother!”
It was actually Ollie Holden (of this Nic38 forum) who said I might want to check on my inner stay security factor when he heard it was substantially down the foretriangle.
One idea is to put a reef set-up into my staysail so that the forces are at least less when reefed in winds above 30 knots, if and when I get to sail in those winds…which would make the whole thing more useful, perhaps.
Cheers
bot fixing and second image showing size of storm jib realtive to 140 genoa
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Images attached, and forgot to say that, below decks, the steel fixing for the bottom of the babystay has a dyneema strop tensioned with turnbuckles to a fixing point on the inside of the V of the hull which is glassed in, all this to strengthen the stay and not pull up the deck.
Forgot to mention that I am running the NECO 17DR8 motor with a Simrad AP22 control panel and and Simrad J300X brain from 2008, not with the original Neco Control box.
More photos on the website
