Air Vents

[Chihili Q]

I have one through-deck air vent leaking. Occluding the opening with duct tape has temporarily solved the problem of drips onto the forward saloon seat but how to cure the problem long term? I would prefer a Dorade substitute but like to remove the cockpit/ deckhouse roof and position this on deck over the vent so a Dorade would probably preclude that arrangement. The vent has a vertical tube sealed where it passes through the deck, and a canopy covering tube and baffles. The canopy or roof seems glued to the deck. Anybody dismantled one of these things? Anybody have experience of alternatives?

Adrian.

[Czarina Blue]

I have exactly the same question as Adrian above. I presume they are adhesived onto the deck and need cutting free and then rebounding with marine sealant. No sign of any screws accessible from above or below. Any useful info from other owners please respond. Cheers Duncan

[Kari and Lawrence]

Hi Guys,

I have only considered this problem arising but am aware of another nice 38, whose owner describes a similar leak. Think I would try removal using a flat paint scraper, with perhaps some gentle tapping to help work it loose. Would involve more work, trying to cut them off. Hopefully, if the adhesive is failing, they will come off ok. Would be interested to learn how you get on?

Regards Lawrence

[PeterM]

Yes, the foc’s’le one leaked horribly two years ago, and was taped over for the last part of the season.
I knocked it off with a wood chisel, bit by bit around the edge. it was attached with polyester putty which was quite brittle, and the underlying gel coat did not chip. It was a bit disconcerting hitting it hard, but worked out well.
the baffle was also connected with this putty and was disconnected on one side, perhaps from hitting it, so needed repair.

-Peter M

[Kari and Lawrence]

Dear Peter,

Great info and pics, much appreciated.

Regards, Lawrence

[Czarina Blue]

Brill picture thanks for clarifying

[Steve Orlebeke]

We had leaky vents and figured out how to get them off as described above.  The standpipes underneath were all broken loose from brittle glue.  So water goes between the pipe and the deck.  We pulled the tubes out, cleaned them up, and reinstalled with 3M 4200.  Then bonded the covers back down with the same.  No more leaks.

[Moderator]

For people who had these leak at these air vents, did you find that the deck is wood-cored in the area of these vents? If yes, did the leak result in any core rot?

In the area of the galley water heater vent, I did find a wood core.

I’m thinking the entire cabin top has a wood core, but that the side decks are solid FRP, with some embedded aluminum backing plates under stanchions, winch bridges, etc.

Comments, anyone?

[David and Felicity]

In answer to Marilyn’s question, I have screwed into the main cabin deckhead and it certainly looks like wood core. I can confirm that the after cabin has a wood core to the deckhead, I have drilled right through that. We also have wood cores to the side and fore decks, it is open on the under side over much of its area. We do have a patch of rot here from a leak under one of the guard rail stanchions that we are going to have to try to deal with.

David

[Moderator]

Thanks David – I was afraid the whole cabin top (main and aft) had a wood core. The concern is that we’ve found Formosan Termites on our boat in the plywood backing plate that you mention under the foredeck.

And as you say, the cabin sides do have a plywood backing behind that vinyl wall covering. We know that from when we rebedded or replaced all the portlights.

I would like to use epoxy or varnish to seal every bit of wood in the boat to protect from termites, but this may be an impossible task unless we take on an entire interior refit. That won’t happen unless the termites destroy wood bulkhead integrity – and that is a horrible thought.

Marilyn

[Author]

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