Anodes

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April 12, 2020 at 09:12 #26687
Arild Jaeger
Arild Jaeger
Participant

Our Nic 38/10 has one large zinc anode about one foot forward of the propeller on the port side. It is connected to the through hull fitting for the propeller shaft by a naked copper wire.  We have not changed this anode in our 16 year ownership time. There is still a good bit of zinc left, but this year it will go.

I do not like the position right in front of the propeller, where the anode disturbs the water inflow.

A few years ago, I noticed that the propeller appeared to be discoloured and pitted some places. I believe the grease between the stern tube and the shaft creates electrical insulation. I therefore added a propeller nut anode. This almost goes away every year, and therefore seems to be very useful (and expensive).

Maybe I should just skip the large anode or alternatively fit a smaller one with through hull bolts  behind the rudder and with an inside wire connection to the stern tube?

I would appreciate if you could share your experience with anodes on the Nicholson 38.

Kind regards,

Arild

April 15, 2020 at 22:16 #26688

João de Almeida Farracho
Participant

Hi Arild,

I’m taking care of the same with Conche. That’s a very good question indeed and I’m curious to listen about solutions we’re using too.

I’m a recent owner and have not implemented so far a cycle maintenance.

But I’ve set already the 3  Zinc anodes I think to be a solution.

1) Zinc anode next to engine’s heat exchanger. This one should be checked and substituted regularly.

2) Zinc cup bolted to propeller nut . This one protects propeller and I believe it lasts less than 10 months on our case.

3) Large zinc fixed with trough hull bolts. Then two 10mm copper wires run from the bolts to link engine block and stern gland ( stern tube greaser system)

4) Finally the shaft has a flange and there is to link with a copper wire the two sides of the flange if it is insulated type.

This is what I have in mind.

Kind regards,

João

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