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Some personal observations:
Positive:
1. No need to attach steering line to the wheel. Course adjustments are made by using an endless line from the unit which I lead directly to the cockpit across the coach roof.
2. It has its own rudder which means that you have an emergency rudder.
Negative:
1. Tacking / gybing when the mizzen up is not straightforward.
2. So far I have not been able to ship the Hydrovane rudder without either backing the boat to a pontoon, using the dinghy or going for a swim. I can just about unship it by leaning out over the transom but don’t find this easy.
Operation:
1. I have found some interference with the wind flow when the mizzen is set. I adjust the vane angle to compensate which can slow the boat a little because of the then larger than necessary rudder angles.
is then straightforward. I don’t think I lose much in the way of speed.3. The Hydrovane worked best for me when reaching but it does work on all points of sail.
4. My Hydrovane was yard fitted and I was away at the time. It is slightly off centre and very slightly out of alignment vertically. I find that the main rudder always has port helm irrespective of whether the boat is on port or starboard tack. I have never been sure whether this is because of the positioning of the Hydrovane or my own incompetence in balancing the main rudder, sails and Hydrovane vane.
5. Whenever the Hydrovane and mizzen are both in use I always use a preventer line to the mizzen boom irrespective of the relative wind direction.
6. I only use the Hydrovane for long passages.
7. When the Hydrovane rudder is shipped manoeuvrabilty in restricted areas can be (more!) difficult. Whenever possible I remove it before entering a marina in which the berths are tightly packed or there is a wind blowing.
8. When I am approaching the coast or a busy shipping area I lower the mizzen and bring the boom round to one of the backstays so that I can tack immediately in case I need to alter course at short notice.
8. I had a removeable SS tiller bar made for my Hydrovane so I can use it as an emergency rudder I have been tempted to fit one of the smaller tiller autopilots for use when under power because of the low amps they use but have been put off because of stories that these small units are not sufficiently waterproof.
In general I find the Hydrovane to be an extremely useful piece of kit for offshore passages. I wouldn’t be without it despite the short-comings mentioned above.
Peter
Peter has put together a very comprehensive list of advantages and disadvantages for the Hydrovane. They mirror my experiences with the Hydrovane exactly.
I was especially interested in the difficulty of manoeuvering when the Hydrovane rudder is down. We too experienced this and the standard drill when approaching close quarters work is to remove the rudder. We also experienced interaction between the Hydrovane rudder and the main rudder with very stiff steering when under power. So much so that we would remove the rudder for pasages under power.
As you may have read on our website the Hydrovane rudder shaft broke whilst on our Atlantic crossing. To be fair to Hydrovane we suspect that the previous owner had grounded the rudder on a quay and bent the shaft, creating a weak point.
After reading about Peter’s ‘off centre’ installation I wonder whether the stiff steering may have been caused by the bent rudder shaft.
I am still debating what to do about the Hydrovane. I understand from the very helpful people at Hydrovane that I can replace the rudder shaft assembly at a cost of about £2200 with the possibility of a little machining. I could get a new shaft, housing and bearings made up by a machine shop or we could bite the bullet and get another wind vane.
Peter
My very limited experience of using the Hydrovane under power:
I tried with the Hydrovane rudder both locked and unlocked. Locked proved better but produced larger turning circles than normal. I have berthed the boat without drama in marinas with the rudder shipped and locked when(a) when the berth is directly upwind and (b)when there is no wind… and there is sufficient room to get the boat nicely lined up for the approach.
I tried the rudder unlocked in the hope that it would align itself with the main rudder and aid rather than hinder the manoeuvre. Going ahead with an unlocked rudder made the boat fishtail whenever I applied more than gentle power – the ‘aid’ effect was too pronounced.
I haven’t attempted to go astern with the Hydrovane rudder shipped (and hope I never have to!)
Peter – Hydrovanes do, occasionally, come up for sale. I was offered one a few years back from a boat returning from one of the RTW rallies. I found it by contacting the rally organiser and asking them to ask the participants if any were interested in selling any of their equipment (charts and sat. phones were also up for disposal) Unfortunately for me at the time I was dispatched overseas for a year so couldn’t follow it up.
Peter
I use a hydrovane love it. Would not be without it.
When not in use I always lock rudder with pin and wind vane with its pin also
Manoeuvring etc seems no problem
I also use it for autopilot steering as well
Autohelm steering to this is both easy to fit and a dream to use smallest unit will do it as little power needed to turn rudder but go for one with controls separate then you can put them near chart table
Latest version is now by Raytheon marine SmartPilot X-5 Tiller system for sailing vessels up to 13,000lb (6,000kg) fully laden displacement
I think mine is old ST 2000 done well over 16000 miles
If your boats steering has no locking clutch you will need to fit oneI am interested in fitting Hydrovane. Can anyone tell me the shaft length and bracket type used. Also size of pads behind transom? Thankyou. Pat Sea Thrift.
I am expecting delivery of one tomorrow at the boat yard! However that is a long way off and I don’t expect to vist for a few weeks; Hydrovane have hopefully sent all the right spec stuff based on their previous experience and fittings. They seem extremely helpful if you deal with them directly and no doubt would tell any specifics you request. They have supplied me with Hydrovane model VXA2D M (shaft length)/H/E and standard vane and wrote:
“Please review our website at http://www.hydrovane.com/index.htm – in particular the SPECIFICATIONS and PARTS tabs/sections to see the three types of brackets. You will need two brackets:
• Upper – a hinged ‘H’
• Lower – a single strut ‘E’ – which strut you will cut to size.SHAFT LENGTH – Our shafts have standard lengths that vary in 10 inch/25 cm. increments. For your boat we suggest an ‘M’ shaft – will put the base of the Drive Unit at 110cm. above the water. The determinants in the shaft length decision are generally to put the Drive Unit at the height that is easiest for operating. Other limiting factors such as arches and mizzens might enter into the equation. Often our bias is towards the shortest version that would suit your boat – as it is cheaper. If there are no other aerial obstructions the next longer size would also be equally suitable – actually superior as there is more wind the higher the vane can reach. If you would like that potentially extra bit of performance you can ask Will if it would work for your boat”.
Regards, Adrian.
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